You can have far worse Chinese food in Portland than at Danwei Canting, but you can also do far better.
Danwei Canting opened this winter with the promise of reflecting the regional diversity represented in China’s capital city, where workers’ restaurants offer a range of hometown favorites to soothe the homesick souls of migrant employees.
The result is a menu that promises convenience and range: Danwei, located in the first floor of a new build in inner Southeast, is the only decent Chinese food option for miles. There’s no need to drive to Beaverton’s Taste of Sichuan for la zi ji chicken buried in hot peppers, to Bing Mi downtown for jian bing crepes, or to Good Taste Noodle House on Southeast 82nd for wonton noodle soup—those specialties are all on its menu.
Yet when it comes down to it, Danwei Canting’s most analogous restaurant may be something along the lines of an American diner—the variety of dishes guarantees everyone will find something to like, but being good at everything often means the restaurant isn’t great at anything.